utorok, augusta 29, 2006

Stale hore – Idzievan a kus od Azerbajdzanu

Nocovali sme v Idzievane – hm co povedat. Stale lesy, kostoliky a hole nic. Toto mesto je niekde tam, ma 25 000 obyvatelov, prasiatka na ulici, miestny hotel sa vola “Onan Ltd”, vsetko sa bud rozpadava alebo sa nedostavalo. Dorabaju tam vino – nic moc. Ked sme si v pajzliku nad riekou (maju tam aj mini klietku s dvoma nadhernymi velikanskymi sovami a jednou korytnackou) dali flasku, mali sme pocit, ze sovietske retro nemoze byt silnejsie – velke budovy, vojaci, pomniky, z modernych amplionov nostalgicke sovietske songy o laske striedali armenske (asi o tom istom). Internet uz zaviedli, ale “teper nerabotajet”, skratka lebo vcera prsalo… Posta bola otvorena aj v nedelu, ale vsecicko, vcitane tety postarky, bolo zapadane prachom. Uzas. Vsetci Armeni, co sme ich stretli maju ozajstnu nostalgiu za CCCP a niekde viac, inde menej (v Idzevane isto viac) je to vidiet...
Basta u miestnych bola zase super. Aj ich barak – fakt dost iny oproti vsetkemu ostatnemu.

Posledna noc v Armensku bola neuveritelna. Stale sme sli na sever smerom k hraniciam a chceli sme este prebadat kostoliky v horach. Plan sme moc nemali. Nastastie sa nam prihovorili 2 mladici. Proste nas zobrali do hor, v ktorych vraj prezili 6 rokov zivota, ked sa schovavali pocas bojov. Teraz nas viedli v tych svojich ciernych spicatych poltopankach a paradnych kostolnych gatach. Videli sme cerkev, ktoru by sme inak asi nenasli – nadherna, polo zrucana s tajnou chodbickou pre dedincanov, co sa tam za vojny schovavali, v ktorej teraz ziju velke netopiere.

normalne som zohnal obrazok toho kostolika na nete (vola sa Arakelots)(m)



Chalani nam ukazali jazero, v ktorom sa sice da kupat, ale treba vediet kde: “Pred troma tyzdnami na nas Azerbajdzanci strielali”. Hranica je odtial fakt blizucko. Videli sme niekolko opustenych dediniek, z ktorych Azeri boli nuteni/proste odisli… Aj dedinka, pri ktorej sme boli najblizsie je v uplnej prdelke, ked sme na druhy den rano chceli bus, tety pri obchode: “Dnes nejde, az zajtra”. Nocovali sme na cistinke nad potokom, kde sa miestni chodievaju kupat. Krasny ladovy potok a veceru nam doplnili male rybky len tak opecene na ohni – my sme ich samozrejme nechytili… miestni boli fakt mili – a to sme si chvilku sepkali “Doverujeme im???”. Osobitne po tom, co sa nas priatelsky pytali : “A oruzie u vas est? (Zbran mate?)”...
Ked sme sa snazili diplomaticky spytat co tam v takej prdielke mladi chalani robia – teda akoze kde pracuju a tak… Na otazku “Cem vy zanimajetes”, na ktoru nam zatial davali vzdy odpoved ala aku karieru si dotazovany cloviecik buduje. Nam proste tito odpovedali: “Ako vy, mame radi prirodu – casto chodime do hor, polujeme, lovime ryby … a tak”.

6 Comments:

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pekne, pekne; len tak dalej. sledujem vas z aix-en-provance .... zajtra ideme do santropez ....

nie ze vas tam ukradnu, spiju do neboha ci tak nejako ...

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